3 days in Austin & meeting Vanessa Van Edwards in person!

It is time to fulfill an old dream, to meet someone I have long admired, and this time the path leads across the ocean to Texas. This person is Vanessa Van Edwards, and I have wanted to meet her in person for around a decade, and finally this dream is coming true!

Practical Tips

Flights: I booked the flight only a couple of weeks before the trip, flying with Finnair/British Airways. As a result, the tickets were incredibly expensive—nearly €1,200 (for that price, you can usually fly four people to the US!).

Accommodation: In Austin, I stayed at the La Quinta Inn by Wyndham Austin Capitol / Downtown, paying $340 for three nights right in the city center, with breakfast included. Although the hotel is in remarkably poor condition, it was the cheapest option this time that also made sense logistically.

Transportation: I got around using Uber.

Tours: You can find Austin tour offers here.

Training: Applications for Vanessa Van Edwards’ “People School” classes are available here.

Weather: I visited Austin at the end of March this time. Instead of the expected 30°C, it was rainy and only 19°C, but still spring-like and green. I have previously been to Austin in July, and that was a proper summer!

Other articles about the USA:

All main sightseeing places in Florida

How to rent a car in the USA and main driving tips

The ultimate West Coast roadtrip – LA, Vegas, San Francisco & the national parks

What to see & do in New York city

Visiting Austin & East Texas for the first time

The Way to The USA

Shivering, I walk along the runway on a damp, grey day to board a tiny plane at Riga Airport that will take me to Helsinki. While lugging my carry-on suitcase (the only piece of luggage included in my already super-expensive ticket) up the narrow stairs, I manage to drag its wheels heartily across my white pants. There is little room in the bag; I am traveling to supposedly warmer lands, so my only leisure clothes are on my back, and I didn’t pack any extra jackets. When I sit down in the cramped seat, I assess the stain—it’s quite bad. Once the plane is in the air, I head to the restroom hoping to wash the mud off, but it turns out the water supply in the sink isn’t working. When I ask the flight attendant about it, I’m given a small wet wipe intended for stain removal. Clearly, I’ll have to try to clean it in Helsinki!

In the restroom in Helsinki, I try the wipe. Surprisingly, the stain actually disappears, but there’s one snag—as the light fabric gets wet, it turns a light beige and spreads rapidly. Now I look like I’ve heartily peed myself. Standing by the hand dryer with one leg lifted, I recall a cartoon about men in the gym using hair dryers to dry various body parts. Judging by the looks from the ladies entering the restroom, I look something like that.

Calmly but with purpose, I head toward the boarding gate. I remember that at Helsinki Airport, these flights are quite far away, and the layover time isn’t infinite. Suddenly, I hear that all passengers flying to the USA must report to a special document check at a specific window. Even though my ESTA was checked in Riga (despite not having checked luggage, I knew about this requirement and showed it early), the employee here still meticulously checks everything again. Later, at the boarding gate, those who didn’t go through this procedure on time create a bottleneck; they eventually end up in a separate line until they are let into the “pen” from which they are finally allowed to board. Fortunately, everything went smoothly for me.

The plane to Dallas turns out to be surprisingly empty. I have two empty seats next to me, and I can use the so-called “poor man’s business class” for sleeping—stretching my legs completely horizontally and leaning my back against the window, or curling up as much as my height allows. At least I’m fully lying down! Despite it being daytime in Latvia, I’ll try to sleep because I’m testing Timeshifter app designed to adjust to new time zones more quickly, and it says my eyes must be closed!

Arriving to Dallas

Waking up at the destination and seeing “Dallas” on the screen brings back memories of the 90s, when I watched the TV series of the same name with my mom. They say that Richards born in Latvia during those years got their name mainly thanks to a character from that show. Back then, it certainly didn’t seem like I would one day end up in Dallas myself—or at least at the city’s airport, as is the case this time. Dallas Fort Worth Airport is my penultimate stop before reaching Austin. Flights from here to Austin run more frequently than buses from Riga to Liepāja. For a moment, I even get confused seeing the cities listed alphabetically on the board until I find my gate.

The document check is very quick and painless. I tell the border guard I’m going for training, and I’m admitted into the country without complications. I have no checked baggage, so there’s nothing to re-register. The flight from Europe wasn’t delayed, so I have three hours to kill before my next flight. Out of curiosity, I walk to the airline info center and ask if it’s possible to catch an earlier flight, but all seats are completely sold out.

While waiting, I mull over the little details that undeniably signal I am in the USA: the carpeting on the floor as soon as you exit the plane, the massive gaps in the restroom between the stall doors and the floor (more than once, a child has crawled into my stall this way), and the ubiquitous drinking fountains. It seems water bottles get bigger every year; now nearly two-liter “Stanley” giants are in fashion, carried everywhere.

Finally, boarding begins strictly by groups, and a moment later, I’m on the plane. When it’s time to take off, I hear a sound that makes me scratch my head. I’ve heard this once before. Right! Years ago, on a very cold day flying from Chicago to Orlando. Back then, the plane had technical problems, and we eventually took off with a four-hour delay. Over the next 45 minutes, the noise sounds a couple more times, and then, the captain’s voice—the plane is broken, everyone must get off. Fortunately, this is the airline’s largest hub, and shortly after, they announce that another aircraft has just arrived at the opposite gate to finally take us to our destination.

Finally in Austin

I arrive in Austin just over an hour late. It’s dark, and I’m truly sleepy now. It’s much cooler than expected—instead of the anticipated 30°C, it’s only 19°C, and there was a storm during the day. I’m only staying in the city for three nights, and unfortunately, it’s only supposed to get warmer and less rainy on my last day.

I walk briskly to the Uber zone, which is specially set up at the airport for rideshare platforms. If not for the expensive parking downtown near the hotel, I definitely would have rented a car. Austin’s center is relatively pedestrian-friendly; generally, the USA is not.

This time, it’s not just the flight tickets that are expensive, but the hotel too, I am staying at the La Quinta Inn by Wyndham Austin Capitol / Downtown. I later learn that several large events are happening in the city on these dates, significantly affecting hotel prices. The cheapest I could find was €100 per night, and the booked hotel’s rating is barely 4.2 out of 10. The room smells of dampness, and it doesn’t look like anything has been renovated in the last decade. The thought of walking on the carpet in socks or—God forbid—bare feet makes me shudder. But I brought slippers from another hotel for this very reason. Otherwise, the room has everything necessary: two beds, a shower with two tiny bars of soap, a hairdryer, and even an iron. Like a proper roadside motel (only this time in the city center), breakfast is included, as you usually have to pay extra for it in more expensive US hotels. In the morning, there are Texas-shaped waffles, eggs sealed in thick plastic, hot dog buns (according to the label), toast—but no usual cream cheese—disposable utensils each in their own bag, styrofoam cups for coffee, tea, or instant oatmeal (also each in its own bag), and plates, surprisingly, without a bag. But at least there’s a place to stay.

Having arranged it with the hotel beforehand, I ordered items from online stores—favorite teas, hair ties, a few books, and other trifles from sellers who don’t ship to Latvia. When you’ve been to a country many times, you get used to the goods available only there. In the best traditions, everything ordered arrived in six different packages despite being bought at once. After returning to my room, I had to go back to the reception twice because the employee couldn’t find all the packages in the large mailroom on the first try.

The Dream Meeting

More than ten years ago, my husband showed me an online course on behavioral science and non-verbal communication led by Vanessa Van Edwards and said: “I think this might be interesting for you.” I really liked the course, and later, when the author released a book, I read that too. Applying her advice, I soon got a promotion at work. Several times I suggested her for lectures to my employer, but unfortunately, years ago her hourly rate was already much higher than we could afford. However, by corresponding with her team to find out prices, I got onto her potential client list and even received a copy of her next book before it was released. Meeting her in person, however, just never happened.

For many years it was a dream, until I learned that for the first time, participants of her own course “People School” would have the chance to attend a one-day in-person meeting in Austin. I decided—now it becomes a plan—I have to take matters into my own hands and finally meet her! I feel like I managed to jump on the last train, because in the meantime, her fame has skyrocketed into the stratosphere. Her episode on the Diary of a CEO podcast has over 11 million views, and Jay Shetty mentioned her name as one of his top conversations. She has also visited Mel Robbins, created her own Masterclass, and her YouTube and Instagram accounts each have over a million followers. Looking back at the meeting, I can’t believe it was almost like a private lesson—a whole day together in a small room with 40–50 people, where everyone had the chance to learn from her and take a photo. I spoke with both her and her husband, Scott. It turns out they have both been to Riga as part of a Baltic Sea cruise and described it as a romantic city, with the House of the Blackheads being particularly memorable. Their daughters are fans of the Latvian cartoon “Straume” (Flow), which I learned while gifting them candies with the Cat! Though they say you should never meet your heroes, the trip to Austin was worth every cent and second. After a late dinner for me and an early one for others, it’s time to conclude this incredible day. I feel like I have to pinch myself to make sure it isn’t a dream!

Alina Andrusaite and Vanessa Van Edwards

A Rainy Morning at the Capitol & Free Tour

The most affordable return tickets, even including hotel costs, were for the day after next, so I had the whole next day free for sightseeing. I visited Austin six years ago and saw the main spots, but I wanted to return to some and see a few new places.

My sleep was restless, shared by the swifts nesting under the roof bridges connecting the buildings. I could hear them chattering all night. Then, for a moment, it sounded like a party outside—voices, sometimes even shouting. I didn’t risk opening the door, but with the lights off, I peeked through the curtains. Since it’s a proper motel, every room has an entrance from the street. The source of the noise was a group of youths riding electric scooters through the hotel parking lot. An odd choice of time, but it looked like nothing bad was happening. I managed to fall asleep again.

After breakfast in a room with slightly moldy windows, I started replanning my sightseeing list because it was drizzling and only 17°C outside. I decided to start with the closest thing—the Capitol, the main seat of the Texas state government. Last time we walked through it ourselves, but this time I had read that free tours were available. Unfortunately, the hotel had no umbrellas and I had no rain jacket, but I decided I’m not made of sugar; it was warm enough anyway.

A wide lawn with trees full of jumping squirrels surrounds the Capitol. The air smells of damp grass and spring. Whether it was the rain or the early hour (due to the time zone difference, I was up before first light), the streets were deserted. There were definitely more squirrels in the park than people. First, I stopped at the information center, where they told me to head to the main building for the tour. They run every 15 minutes and last half an hour. I picked up my pace and arrived shortly.

Entering the grand building, where I saw others—mostly government men and women coming to work—I first had to pass through security. You can bring in liquids and electronics; given the specifics of this state and country, the guards are mostly checking for weapons.

I arrived exactly in time for the tour. The guide talked a lot about history and various US historical facts; some things remained unclear as there were many references to battles I wasn’t familiar with. But I looked at the rooms and artwork with interest. Texas is called the “Lone Star State”; once it was an independent republic, and the star is visible on the flag and widely depicted in the Capitol on lamps, chairs, and other decorative elements. During the tour, we visited rooms where sessions weren’t currently held, and we were even taken to the new underground extension. As usual, the tour ended at the gift shop. This time, I was surprised by the high quality of the items. I usually don’t buy anything, but I bought beautiful towels with flowers (wildflowers are special in Texas), a notebook, and even gifts for relatives. I know this isn’t the cheapest place for gifts, but the products are truly beautiful. Good thing my return flight allows 23 kg of carry-on; I can already feel I’ll be using every expansion zipper on my bag!

The Library and Afternoon Tea

Leaving the Capitol, I dropped my purchases at the hotel and went for a walk, stopping at the post office to send a package to a friend in California. At least my bag is a bit emptier!

It’s no longer raining, but not clearing up either, yet enjoying the fragrant spring air is still pleasant. I observe the city and its people. The city motto is “Keep Austin Weird,” seen in the artistically decorated shop windows and murals. Walking down the main street toward the Capitol, I appreciate how green the city is—trees everywhere, full of birds. There are other “green” elements, too: cannabis product shops. At least, unlike New York, the smell isn’t noticeable on the street. Though, it is still early.

Every so often, an autonomous car without a driver passes me. You can even get one when calling an Uber, though I didn’t get to try it this time. Not long ago in San Francisco, these self-driving cars caused massive traffic jams because power went out in a large part of the city and their systems weren’t ready for an environment without traffic lights where drivers have to gesture to each other to navigate intersections. Latvia certainly has a long way to go before such autonomous vehicles can drive safely, as currently, lane assistants still get confused between a lane and a tar-smeared patch in the middle of the road.

I cross a bridge over Shoal Creek, which has several small waterfalls. In Latvia, this would be a main city attraction, but here they aren’t even marked, and the water is full of trash. I guess it doesn’t count as anything noteworthy here. Soon I am at the Austin Public Library. I wander around the building for a bit until I find the entrance. You can walk through and read books on-site without registering. If you want to take books home or use the e-book system, you must register. For Austin residents, it’s free (with proof of address); for others, there’s a fee. In the US, many libraries still allow anyone to register for e-books since the pandemic without strictly verifying addresses.

I start my tour from the top floor, which has a rooftop viewing deck. You can read in the fresh air with a view of the southern side of the city. There’s a small garden. I sit at one of the tables to rest. A bit ahead of me are several homeless people who seem to have come here to sleep. The restroom sinks have warm water, and a sign at the info center says if you need hygiene products, they are available there.

There are many people in the library studying or working, using it as a co-working space. I walk through the rooms observing the books. The first thing I notice is that despite the large number of books, there is still so much empty space—entire rows of empty shelves. I wander into an aisle that turns out to be entirely dedicated to books about TV series. For example, there’s a book about the filming of The Big Bang Theory, Doctor Who, and Friends. A whole niche genre I’ve never encountered before.

After exploring the library, I head further along the Colorado River. Again, the familiar sight of piles of bottles and disposable containers. At least some nets are placed to collect part of the trash. Turtles swim among the bottles and ducks walk along the banks. Nature tries to survive, but disposable containers are clearly a problem here.

Soon I’m at the Four Seasons hotel, where I reserved afternoon tea on the OpenTable app a few days ago. Fortunately, it’s available for one person, but it’s still pricey—around $70, because sales tax is added to the initial price; in the US, the full price only appears at the moment of payment. Check out the other afternoon tea experiences I have had worldwide in this article!

Afternoon tea at the Four Seasons Austin

I sit on a sofa by the reception for a while as the lobby bar opens exactly at 1:00 PM. I watch the people in this hotel and think about how many thousands it would cost me to stay here given the influx of guests in the city. In the corner, there’s a self-service machine that only dispenses champagne bottles. Clearly, this isn’t the ordinary ice machine like at my hotel. I bet the breakfast room doesn’t have a moldy window either!

While waiting, I notice some tables are already set, and one in the middle has a view of the rose-decorated terrace—for one person, with a pretty pink teapot. As soon as the bar opens, a man tries to sit there, but the waitress indicates it’s reserved. Giving my name, I am led right to the pink teapot. I check the menu and am surprised the tea doesn’t have its own card; the waitress recites the options and I choose Oolong. It turns out the included cocktails are only alcoholic and can’t be made virgin, but they offer me a blueberry drink instead. Shortly after, they bring the three-story food tower. Everything is there, but not quite, and overall it leaves a bit of a meager aftertaste and lacks atmosphere. There are floral decorations throughout the hall, but only a tiny bouquet on the table. The setup is pretty and invites slow enjoyment, but in the corners, massive TV screens are showing a sports broadcast. In about 40 minutes, I’ve ordered, eaten, and am leaving. The fastest afternoon tea I’ve ever had out of the twenty or so I’ve attended!

Zilker Botanical Garden and Outdoor Pool

After tea, I call an Uber and get into a car with a glass roof that quickly takes me to the Zilker Botanical Garden. Reviews online said this was some people’s favorite garden in the world, while others felt there wasn’t much to see. It likely depends on the season.

Due to the amount of tea I drank, I stop at the restroom and notice posters stating that hygiene products are available for free at the gift shop; you just have to ask for the “yellow folder.” I’m glad they’ve thought of that!

I start my walk in the succulent garden; they look like they’ll bloom soon. It seems odd that it was 30°C for several weeks, and in some places everything is in full leaf, but many trees have no leaves at all and don’t look like they will soon. I noticed something similar visiting San Antonio in winter. I view the bonsai collection, then admire a turtle the size of a small leaf. For a moment the sky clears and the sun starts to bake; I’m worried I didn’t bring sunscreen, but the moment is brief.

It seems this isn’t the best season for the garden—I find faded cherry blossoms and wisteria flowers mostly on the ground. Irises are blooming in one bed, and I manage to spot exactly one butterfly in the butterfly garden, with the highway humming—not the water—nearby. The only thing that really catches my attention is the historical element—an original 19th-century wooden building, one of the best-preserved log cabins in the US. A Swede named Sven Magnus Svensson once lived there with his uncle Svante Palm. They encouraged about seven thousand Swedes to move to Texas, and there was even a Swedish newspaper, The Texas Posten. To this day, many cities still celebrate St. Lucia Day and Midsummer!

After the botanical garden, I walk through Zilker Park to the Barton Springs natural spring outdoor pool. The path leads along the highway and through a wide park where wildflowers bloom. In Texas, Lady Bird Johnson put great effort into preserving wildflowers. I won’t make it to the wildflower center named after her this time as it’s about 20 km outside the city (maybe I should have rented that car!), but at least I can enjoy the meadow flowers in the park. Later, I notice these flowers growing even in small square beds under trees in the city, especially the bluebonnets (Lupinus texensis), which are the Texas state flower.

In some places, the park paths are flooded; elsewhere, they are covered in a thick layer of mud, so I have to walk carefully not to slip. Afterward, I walk through puddles for a long time to rinse the mud from my grooved soles. Arriving at the pool, I have to wander again to find the entrance. AI suggested this place as something open early for those suffering from jet lag. Good thing I didn’t listen and come at 5:00 AM! There’s construction nearby, and to get to the pool you have to walk on sidewalks as muddy as the park, through a village of construction trailers—I wouldn’t want to do that alone in the dark. It’s also not warm enough to want to swim, so I decide not to pay the entry fee. I just walk up to the fence to observe. The day is overcast, but the water still looks a light blue-green. There are lifeguard stations around the pool, and they actually have lifeguards. There aren’t many swimmers, but a few with caps and goggles are there.

Shopping in the USA

Near the park are several shopping centers. I find one with my favorites—the so-called “last year’s collection” stores like Ross, TJ Maxx, and Nordstrom Rack. From experience, I know the prices are sweet, but there’s a “hunter” element as things can be scattered, have the wrong price or size tags, or a five-pack might only have four items. (Check out this article with all my tips on shopping in the USA here!). There isn’t much room in my bag, but I’ll have to find some because the prices are too good to pass up. Ten pairs of sports socks for about five euros, a new summer bag for eleven, a soapy-silky 100% cashmere cardigan for 40, a set of lovely kitchen towels for four euros. After visiting these stores, I’ve bought a whole bag of trifles; if it doesn’t fit in the suitcase, I’m ready to wear it all! Every time I’m in these stores, I think I should buy Christmas gifts early because the selection is fantastic!

Next, I want to stop at a bookstore across the road. Crossing the road in the US is not easy as it’s not a pedestrian country; everyone drives. No one else is carrying shopping bags like I am. After a long trek along the roadside, I finally find a crosswalk and get to the other side to the little shop. Right at the entrance, I’m greeted by a stand of “banned books”—works by various authors that at some point caused a stir and were blacklisted. There’s Maus, Harry Potter, and works by Ray Bradbury. I go deeper into the store where other books and stationery are available and notice a large Moomin display. How nice it would be to see something like that for “Straume”!

Finally, the last stop of the day is a giant Walmart, where you could also wander for hours. Where a Latvian supermarket might have two or three brands for a product group, here there’s an entire long aisle with dozens of manufacturers. For all tastes, sizes, configurations—super packs that last months and tiny ones for a couple of uses. Mostly everything is XL, like four-liter milk jugs and ice cream tubs big enough for a football team. The aisles are wide enough for three people with carts to pass easily. I notice that even here, expensive items like cosmetics are locked in cabinets and you have to call a clerk. I don’t do a big shop here, just grab a box of strawberries for a little over two euros for breakfast and a yogurt for dinner. Even there, you can find a single yogurt; you don’t have to buy six! The time difference is taking its toll and I’m not even hungry, just the awareness that I should bite something.

The Park and the L.B.J. President’s Museum

The last morning in Texas has arrived. Saturday at 8 AM, there’s no one on the streets around the hotel. The museum I want to see is still closed, so I head to the nearby Waterloo Park, where greenery mingles with the yellow of blooming irises. Birdsong fills the soul. After a bit, it starts to drizzle and I duck under a tree, watching pigeons in this city oasis. Soon, a songbird perches on a light pole and warbles to the depths of my heart. How I miss this sound in winter!

When it gets drier, I move on. People become more numerous, appearing to head to a sports game, carrying fan gear and plastic ponchos. Everyone is going in one direction. I ask a passing group what the event is—youth track and field championships. When I see the thousands gathered in the stadium, I realize this event is definitely one reason for the high hotel prices. Traffic is blocked in the whole area, but where it isn’t, cars are very generous in letting pedestrians pass. Sometimes it seems someone has stopped just because they see a pedestrian dozens of meters away. It’s a pleasant culture of coexistence!

I slowly reach the Lyndon Baines Johnson Library and Museum. Born in Texas, the politician was initially JFK’s Vice President and became the 36th President after Kennedy’s death. This building serves as a historical archive housing 45 million documents from his presidency, though only researchers are allowed access to those. His wife Lady Bird’s office was also here in later years.

Entering the museum, the first exhibit is about the Vietnam War. I learn that this president made the decision to send American soldiers there, which overshadowed many of his other achievements. On one wall is a massive display with the names of the deceased, and next to it—a box of tissues.

I continue through the grand rooms. Seeing the massive spaces made of light-colored stone reminds me of Egyptian temples. Something equally monumental. I visit the Oval Office exhibit, which is one-eighth smaller than the real one in the White House, and learn he was responsible for the development of NASA. At the very end, I reach Lady Bird’s office, the decor of which reminds me of the series Mad Men. This floor displays her outfits, beautiful dishes, and tells more about her mission to preserve Texas wildflowers.

The Cemetery and a Proper Lunch at Denny’s

After the museum and seeing the Olmec sculpture replica displayed nearby, I walk back toward the hotel, choosing the other side of the highway to stop at the historic Oakwood Cemetery. It opens at 7 AM (like many US parks, cemeteries have gates and aren’t open 24/7). I’m glad I came now as the sun occasionally breaks through the clouds. Most people use it as a park, just like me. But while they walk dogs, I look at the little lupines and grey monuments. There’s a plan at the chapel of the burial places of significant people, but none of the names look familiar. It’s probably wiser to come here on an organized tour.

The breakfast waffles and strawberries are long forgotten, and after the cemetery, I stop at a nearby roadside diner—Denny’s—a favorite spot of mine on every US trip (check out my other preferred places here!). Life is buzzing here; people are using Saturday lunch for a family meal. As is custom, the waitress immediately brings a glass of tap water. I order steak with broccoli, and they bring the salad that usually comes with the main course. In the bowl is shredded iceberg lettuce, one halved cherry tomato, one cucumber slice, a teaspoon of grated cheese, and a few croutons. Ranch dressing is brought in a side cup. It’s not fine dining, but I feel full; my next proper meal will be on the plane.

In the Park with a Book

It’s time to leave the hotel room, so I head back quickly to get my bags and leave them at the reception for storage. By the time I have to prepare to go home, the weather is finally truly summery! I still have five hours until my flight, so I decide to take a book to the Capitol park. I settle first on a sunny bench, then my face starts to feel burned, so I move to the shade. I notice women in festive saris heading through the park every few minutes. It turns out the birthday celebration of Chhatrapati Shivaji, ruler of the Maratha Empire, is happening right at the Capitol entrance—a stage has been built for later performances. I’d love to see the dances as Bollywood dancing is a theme close to me, but the event is delayed. Meanwhile, I walk to the nearby Capitol Cafe and order red velvet ice cream. The ice cream is surprisingly delicious, but the service is quite cold, which is atypical for the USA. While watching other cafe visitors and the photos of statesmen and women on the walls, suddenly there’s movement on the street—hundreds of BMX bikes are riding by! Clearly, another event contributing to the higher hotel prices!

Now it really is time to go to the hotel for my bag and head to the airport. The event at the Capitol still hasn’t started; the only music on the street is from an ice cream truck luring passersby, but I’ve already had my treat elsewhere.

The Way Home

Soon I’m at the airport. Despite not having checked bags, I still have to show up at the check-in window for a document check. I receive my boarding pass, which says boarding is at 19:32 and gates close at 19:53. Another difference between US and European airports—we don’t use such precise times, usually rounding to five minutes. Then follows security, where both my carry-on and filigreed-packed suitcase go for extra screening and must be completely repacked after the employee inspects them.

At passport control, the new Latvian passport earns admiration from the officer—the pages are so beautiful under UV light! I tell him to flip through more because every spread has a different image! The officer is amazed I know this fact and studies the drawings with interest.

Walking through the airport, I notice an art installation between gates 12 and 14—“Interimaginary Departures,” marked by an infinity symbol. It was created by artist Janet Zweig. The screen shows a list of upcoming flights—Avonlea from Anne of Green Gables, DystopiaAir flight to the Matrix, Tatooine, Valhalla, and others. By answering a couple of questions at an interactive ticket machine, you can receive a souvenir boarding pass (though now only in QR code format, which unfortunately didn’t work). I spend half an hour here, watching the sliver of light through a supposedly cracked door, the chairs half-sunken into the wall, and studying the destination list, trying to remember which movie or book they are from.

Time to board. This flight isn’t full either, and I get lucky again—the seat between me and the passenger at the aisle is empty, so we each get half a seat more to try to sleep on the night flight. The app again says that to return to the correct rhythm, I must sleep.

In the morning, I spend a few more hours in London at Heathrow (where my bag is again searched to the seam; one of my purchases must look very suspicious!), enjoying breakfast at Gordon Ramsay’s Plane Food. I have to wait 40 minutes for the salad, which is a bit much for an airport, but at least I spend the time peacefully with a view of the planes, without the bustle and fight for a seat in the terminal.